Dries Van Noten took a trip to the firehouse for fall, adopting the fireman’s uniform and infusing the hero’s protective gear with an Eastern influence in the form of prints.
Maison Martin Margiela delivered colorful fashions that blended strong tailoring with 1970s glam references.
Rei Kawakubo’s fall-winter 2015 menswear collection for Comme des Garçons was entitled The Power of Ceremony and presented a series of interpretations on the suit, cut and sliced together with various patterns and colors.
Creative director Kris Van Assche saw an opening to propel his sporty aesthetic forward, disguised as formalwear–the perfect blend of a traditional, dressed up idea of menswear and today’s appeal to relevant street style.
Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane found his fall muse in a fresh generation of young French musicians. The young rock muses inspired a lean trip down the catwalk with a beret as a nod to Paris.
Creative director Ennio Capasa continued to romanticize the man of rock ‘n’ roll for fall with an outing that captured an eternal reflection of the fashion house’s cool, contemporary attitude. Discussing a shoot he completed for pre-fall, Capasa reflected, “I imagined urban angels situated on the roof of a hangar in Santa Monica, where the night before we hosted together with Marina Abramovic, the ‘Heaven’ event. The urban angels now landed in Milan in their male, minimal, chic rock ‘n’ roll attitude, the eternal signature of Costume National. Today, we need angels more than ever!”
Confident, noble, tailored and precise, ensembles were executed with a careful grace as an all-compassing wardrobe of knitwear, jackets, coats and suiting were brought together with luxe textiles and an autumnal color scheme.
Dispersed amongst Dolce & Gabbana’s signature tailored suits and luxurious outerwear pieces were a series of casual pullovers, bomber jackets and other staples, decorated in family photos and related words.
Varvatos was inspired by an image of Dylan that photographer Richard Avedon had snapped in Central Park in 1965. Littering the catwalk with fallen leaves, Varvatos brought the image into the present with a modern collection, showcasing tailored styles that men simply desire to wear.
Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti sent one look after the next married utilitarianism with a timeless style that revolved around dressing for the brisk elements.
Turning out reworked classics in lieu of trendy pieces, a strong lineup, based in dark, accessible hues, came forth with trench coats, leather jackets shearling coats, double-breasted overcoats and other outerwear pieces.
Creative director Tomas Maier pushed the boundaries of his artisan appeal to slacker proportions.
Embracing black, navy and gray, the Prada man was outfitted with a minimalist wardrobe that consisted of nylon coats and jackets that were juxtaposed with a modest range of tailored suiting and sportswear separates.
Always displaying a sense of humor, the fashions may have had a dandy spin, but the finishes were lighthearted.
Blending formal tailoring and revamped sportswear, Browne paid tribute to a 1950s Moncler down-filled jacket, reworking the classic in quite the number of variations, even going as far to make several reversible.
Embracing a romantic aesthetic that alludes to the androgynous styles of the 70s, the Gucci man was presented as hero of personal style, showcasing individualism with its unique silhouettes that undoubtedly stand apart from next season’s trends.